Wool ComfortMeter™
The Wool ComfortMeter allows retailers and manufacturers to specify a numerical value for comfort in their buying orders. This means that for the first time retailers and manufacturers have a means of objectively specifying and promoting a garment on the basis of superior comfort.
How does it work?
Fabrics measured on the Wool ComfortMeter, which analyses the surface of the garment for the attribute known to cause prickle and which has been calibrated against the findings of extensive consumer wearer trials, are assigned a single numerical score; the lower the score the higher the consumer comfort. A higher score means that the fabric risks some irritation to the skin.
A higher score means that the fabric risks some irritation to the skin.
If the fabric tested is intended for fashion wear under everyday conditions, a slightly higher score is acceptable (Column 1). If the intended end use is active wear, or performance is required under more extreme conditions, then a lower score will be required (Column 2). This is because when skin becomes wet and temperature is raised it becomes more sensitive.
|
1 - EVERYDAY FASHIONS |
2 - ACTIVE WEAR |
|
|
% of consumer acceptance for comfort level |
Comfort level (WCM) |
Comfort level (WCM) |
|
90 |
< 450 |
< 250 |
|
80 |
450 - 510 |
250 - 320 |
|
70 |
510 - 600 |
320 - 400 |
|
60 |
600 - 660 |
400 - 480 |
|
50 |
660 - 730 |
480 - 550 |
|
40 |
730 - 810 |
550 - 620 |
The quest for comfort
The Wool ComfortMeter can be used by a retailer to test existing products or as part of their innovation and development process.
A retailer simply specifies their preferred Wool ComfortMeter score to its supply chain partners. The supply chain is able to produce the products to the Wool ComfortMeter specification via wool sourcing, processing and fabric finishing techniques.
Retailers can monitor the consistency of the garment’s comfort quality by testing batch samples and compare against the acceptable Wool ComfortMeter score thus ensuring consistent quality between shipments and even from one season to the next.
Dialling up comfort
Retailers can target a level of comfort that satisfies the requirements of both their target consumer and production costs.
There are three broad levels of comfort for fashion and active wear within which a retailer can be certain they will bestocking a comfortable next-to-skin product.
The Sheep CRC’s advice recommends that Wool ComfortMeter scores outside this specified range will have anoticeable level of prickle and many consumers would find these uncomfortable, resulting in dissatisfaction.
Dialling up comfortable fashion and everyday wear
Extensive wearer trials have identified three levels of comfort which have been found to satisfy 70% of consumers wearing woolnext-to-skin for fashion and everyday purposes.
|
COMFORT LEVEL |
COMFORT LEVEL DESCRIPTION |
HOW TO SPECIFY A COMFORT LEVEL |
|
Luxurious comfort |
Wearer trials conclude 90% of consumers find garments in this range comfortable when worn next-to-skin. A product in this range will provide the wearer with the indulgent comfort experience expected from a luxury brand offering. |
To source products that satisfy this comfort level specify a score of WCM 450 or lower. |
|
Premium comfort |
Wearer trials conclude 80% of consumers find garments in this range comfortable when worn next-to-skin. A product in this range will provide the wearer with a premium wearer experience, suitable for leading high street brands and retailers offering premium quality. |
To source products that satisfy this comfort level specify a WCM score between 450 and 510. |
|
Everyday comfort |
Wearer trials conclude 70% of consumers find garments in this range comfortable when worn next-to-skin. The product provides a comfortable, entry level garment for consumers wishing to experience the elite attributes of a Merino wool garment. Garments in this range have been associated with a minor sensation of prickle but from our research possibly not enough for the consumer to not like the fabric. |
To source products that satisfy this comfort level specify a WCM score between 510 to 600. |
Above: Specifying comfort for Merino wool fashion and everyday garments.
Dialling up comfortable active wear
Extensive wearer trials have identified three levels of comfort which have been found to satisfy 70% of consumers wearing wool next-to-skin for active performance.
|
COMFORT LEVEL |
COMFORT LEVEL DESCRIPTION |
HOW TO SPECIFY A COMFORT LEVEL |
|
Elite Performance |
Wearer trials conclude 90% of consumers find garments in this range comfortable when worn next-to-skin whilst engaged in performance activities. The Elite Performance level supports wearers engaged in extreme sports or related activities, providing a comfortable next-to-skin experience which performs even during intense activity under challenging conditions. |
To source products that satisfy this comfort level specify a WCM score of 250 or lower. |
|
Performance Enhanced |
80% of consumers consider this garment comfortable when worn next-to-skin whilst engaged in performance activities. The Performance Enhanced level is the ideal foundation for outdoor wear, providing a comfortable next-to-skin experience suitable for use in activities such as trekking, climbing and kayaking. |
To source products that satisfy this comfort level specify a WCM score between 250 and 320. |
|
Active Everyday |
70% of consumers consider this garment comfortable when worn next-to-skin whilst engaged in performance activities. The Active Everyday level provides perfect next-to-skin comfort for urban performance, an entry level garment for consumers wishing to experience the elite attributes of a Merino wool garment. Garments in this range have been associated with a minor sensation of prickle but from our research possibly not enough for the consumer to not like the fabric. |
To source products that satisfy this comfort level specify a WCM score between 320 and 400. |
Above: Specifying performance for Merino wool active wear garments
Wool Handlemeter™
The touch, or handle, of a garment is one of the key considerations that guides a consumer’s purchasing decisions at the point of sale. How a garment feels either on the rack or against the skin is equally as important a driver of consumer satisfaction as comfort. Most consumers equate the two.
The elite handle of wool is renowned for its versatility and the fibre’s ability to cater to a wide range of tastes and end uses. As a result the required handle of a wool garment will not be the same for different products, consumers and brands. Individual retailers will source garments with a specific handle that caters to their target customer, product segment or brand positioning.
There is often a problem in communicating buyer hand feel preferences across a global supply chain as describing handle is very subjective.
How does it work?
The Wool HandleMeter provides a numerical score for a set of easy to understand handle terms, determined by international fabric experts.
By testing a fabric’s physical characteristics, the Wool HandleMeter measures the seven core attributes of handle: smoothness, softness, warm feel, dry feel, hairiness, tightness and perceived weight as well as an overall luxury handle index.
A retailer can specify a value for each attribute that suits the desired handle outcome for its lightweight single jersey products. The resulting handle code becomes the specification used either to develop new products, or to consistently reproduce the handle quality of an existing item.
Coding the HandleMeter
Retailers can be creative with the HandleMeter, utilising various combinations of handle values until they arrive at the handle code that suits their consumer’s needs. Once the code is locked in, the product can be consistently ordered from the supplier.
For example the code in figure 1 would produce a crisper, cooler hand feel suitable for active wear, whereas the code at figure 2 would produce a warmer, softer garment, more suitable to luxury fashion products.
The type of product the HandleMeter specifies is entirely dependent on the retailer’s knowledge of their customer. The advantage of the HandleMeter is that once the perfect handle has been identified, the retailer has a means to consistently specify this quality to its supply chain, no longer relying on subjective descriptors and guesswork that in the past has led to supply chain disagreement, customer dissatisfaction and returns.
Merino Wool: Naturally comfortable
Merino wool has long been the preferred fibre of retailers wishing to offer their customers a natural, sustainable product of superior style and handle.
A wool garment is naturally breathable; it keeps you warm in winter, and cools you down in summer. It naturally transports moisture away from your body keeping you dry during heat or exertion, and with natural and odour qualities wool garments stay fresh and ready to wear much longer. In recent years retailers, designers and consumers have discovered that the inherent attributes of wool make it the ideal fibre to be worn next-to-skin, not just because it looks good, but because it can outperform any other fibre.
These natural performance attributes mean that wearing wool next-to-skin can provide consumers with increased comfort no matter if they are dressing for fashion, for evey day comfort or even the extremes of active sports.
Next generation comfort and handle
Some retailers are unsure how to confidently specify and source wool products that will be comfortable, free of prickle and have that perfect hand feel that will make consumers want to wear the garment against the skin.
This makes sense, as until now order specification for next-to-skin comfort and handle has been based on little more than human estimation. There have been no objective measurement tools through which retailers and manufacturers could transparently specify a product that does not irritate, assures wearer comfort and has the perfect handle to consistently meet consumer expectations.
After five years of comprehensive consumer wearer trials, involving some 26,000 individual assessments and parallel development of a new measuring system, the CRC for Sheep Industry Innovation has developed two instruments that accurately predict next-to-skin comfort and can calibrate a garment’s handle to the specific requirements of a brand and its target consumer.
Used in concert these instruments empower retailers like never before, removing the guess work from product specification and increasing transparency across the supply chain. The instruments are the Wool ComfortMeter, and the Wool HandleMeter.
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